Another comp over and a little break in the comp circuit has finally arrived!
After competing in Slovenia I headed straight to Vienna for yet another World Bouldering Cup (thank you to Alex and Chris for the lift). After such an epic few weeks this competition didn’t really seem like such a big deal. I usually get excited about the whole experience, travelling, hotels, catching up with friends, climbing… I had been to China, spent a few nights at home, left for Slovenia then travelled to Vienna. I have never really been a home sick kind of person but by the time the comp came round I was very tired and ready to go home to see my family, chill out and sleep in my own bed! I had not really prepared myself for this, its exciting and an amazing experience but sometimes you just need those home comforts! I was still ready to give everything I had and try hard tough.
When warming up for qualifiers I felt quite tired and I couldn’t get my muscles firing. Qualifiers didn’t start until 7.15pm and it had been a long hot day. I went out with quite a relaxed attitude not majorly psyched but feeling ready. The climbing went okay, I didn’t feel good but I managed to get up 4 out of 5 of the boulders in 7 attempts and the put me in second place in my group. I didn’t really like the boulders, one was totally impossible and no one topped it, the first and last boulders were okay steady climbing with nothing too spicy. The second boulder I got really annoyed at myself, I was way to casual on a double handed jump and found it hard to generate psyche. The fourth boulder was crimpy with lots of poor holds and I managed to figure out the right beta on my second try. With qualifiers finishing so late it was straight to bed, up for breakfast and back to isolation.
Semis is definitely the stage where I get most nervous. I had made finals in the first two comps of the year and I was currently in the top six. But there were 20 strong girls psyched and ready to fight for their place in finals on the four semi final blocs.
I had a really good warm up and felt quite excited about trying the boulders. A big thank you to Klaus for taping my shoulder before I went out to climb! The first two blocs in semis went really well, I flashed both of them. The first had a lovely big round volume that I managed to manoeuvre around quite quickly to get to a move that was to put a lot of stress on my shoulder injury. I knew that trying this repeatedly was going to do some damage, I stayed calm and figured my way around it with out causing any pain. The second boulder was a really nice steep powerful bloc that I really enjoyed climbing. The third boulder was impossible for all the girls and on the fourth I got to the last move but the heat got the better of me and I slid off every time.
After semis it was straight to see physio Stewart Watson (GB team member). He had checked out my shoulder the night before and found that there was much more going on than we had realised, the pain went up to the top of my neck and the bottom of my back… brilliant! Stew managed to ease some knots and get my shoulder clicking a little less with some light manipulation and lots of back cracking!
I spent the day avoiding the sun, eating and sleeping before going back to isolation for finals. Then we had presentation where we were all asked awkward questions, I am not the biggest fan of talking in front of a crowd or doing interviews! We then got to see our boulders and the sun was beaming onto the wall making the holds hot sweaty and much harder to hold. The boulders looked really fun and exciting! The first boulder was flashed by 5 of the competitors but unfortunately Olga Shalagina damaged her knee coming off and had to pull out of the finals, I really hope it’s not too bad and that she recovers quickly! The next shut me down right at the top, I was way too tired. The third was a battle and I fought so so so hard to get up there! I was really psyched to complete it.
The final boulder was one of the most devastating experiences for me, I battled my way to the last move to find my arm wouldn’t hold on, the whole right side of my body had shut down. I touched the last hold and had nothing left, I psychically could not get back up there.
In all I am happy with my result and I guess pleased performance. My body hurts and I am more than excited about sleeping in my own bed! My sister asked me “if I told you that you would come 4th, 2nd and 4th in the first 3 world cups would you have believed me?” … no way! I am surprised every time I make semis, every time I make finals and every time I look at the results from the past comps. I did not expect any of this and I can’t wait to see how far I can push myself. Maybe not right now though as my body is extremely tired and sore!
On Wednesday morning I will be heading to Melloblocco, Italy with team Alpkit which I am really looking forward too. Although I will have to spend the first few days resting but it will nice to be in the sun eating pizza and ice cream!
Check out Klaus’s website HERE!