Another World Cup Over And Now Its Time For Rock!!
After Innsbruck I was home for one whole week! I spent a lot of time laying in the glorious sunshine, eating BBQ and I managed to fit in a local comp too. I competed in the ROCFest at Rock Over Climbing Centre which was a really fun comp but it was insanely hot! Almost too hot to climb but I managed to drag myself up the really cool boulders.
Before I knew it I was sat in Manchester airport yet again totally shocked at how fast the last few months have passed and how much has happened. At the beginning of the year I had planned on doing two of the world cup competitions and here I was starting my journey to my 5th comp of the season.
I have got a month in the states and I was really excited about having some time after Vail to chill out, go climbing and have fun! This totally distracted me from the fact that there was another world cup to focus. I almost felt too casual about it. I was excited but not as much as I felt like I should have been.
After a few nights having fun in Boulder with Angela Payne it was time to head over to the beautiful Town of Vail for the World Cup that was taking place at the Teva Games. Annoyingly I still didn’t seem to feel that psyched. Qualifiers was a really unusual experience for me a few things were different from the previous comps. To start with women climbed in the morning and usually we get the morning to chill out watch the guys, see the wall and generally prepare for climbing later that day. But here women climbed first and I had only seen a small picture of the wall. Then my warm up didn’t go very well and my general routine was totally disturbed when I realised that I had cleverly left my Ipod on in my bag which therefore meant it had no charge. Lets just say my head wasn’t really in it which may have been the result of me getting totally confused with the running order and not realising it was my turn to climb until less than one minute to go.
Despite all of this along with an unusual lack of psyche I managed to flash 3 of the five boulders the other 2 did not go very well at all but my inner determination and stubbornness got me to the top of both after multiple attempts with less than 10 seconds to go. The boulders were really fun, the three I flashed I felt good on but I almost felt too relaxed like it was just a normal climbing session. There was a really good mix of style throughout the boulders from balancy and technical to jumpy and powerful.
The photo above is Mina setting up for the crazy dyno on boulder 3 in qualifiers, she flashed this and qualified for semi finals in 16th! I was happy with my result as I sat in 6th place going into semi finals but I was really annoyed at myself for repeatedly falling off boulders that I totally knew I could do. Thats not my normal attitude! Thats not a good attitude! Usually when I fall off I analyse and know what to do. That did not happen in qualifiers for me. I got really annoyed at myself for not caring and spent a lot of time throughout the day thinking a lot about why my head wasn’t in it. I could only be thankful that my performance was not affected too much by this.
Semi finals is always the hardest round both physically and mentally. Knowing that only 6 climbers form the top 20 get to compete in the next round definitely puts the pressure on! The semi final boulder problems are always the most difficult but this time they were really good for me. I have decided to put in quite a few pictures this time as writing about boulder problems gets a bit boring…
I was really happy with my result and my performance in semi finals and was so psyched to be heading into finals in second place! I have never really had a problem with getting psyched before but pressure has started getting to me a bit morerecently, the mind game is hard work but getting psyched and ready is never usually an issue for me. In qualifiers I didn’t feel like myself at all so to over come this for semis was amazing.
Finals were delayed due to bad weather and I was starting to get really tired but observation upped my psyche levels once again. The boulders looked really fun! The first was a no hands jump with a hard top section. Everyone before me had completed this boulder which definitely ups the nerves and the pressure. When my turn came around I wobbled off first try as I stupidly leant too far back when trying to look at my feet but I stuck the crazy jump second try and completed the problem. The next boulder went well for me but the third I had a bit of an epic on. The third boulder was really really cool! A huge sideways dyno to a big horn, I got to the jump and realised how far it was, I didn’t really think I could do it but I went big, really big, closed my eyes and didn’t hit the mat. The last move took me quite a while to get and I got insanely pumped and have no idea how I managed to get it, I tried really really hard and flashed the boulder but had very little left for the last one.
The last boulder was steep with big moves on poor hold and there were a lot of holds and I didn’t really know what sequence to use. I fought my way to a really big move in the middle that I almost held and figured out the right beta as I was heading very very quickly face first into the mat, best fall of the year so far! I knew what I had to do but my arms had very little left and getting to the top of this boulder was totally impossible for me at this moment in time. I got further on the boulder but just did not have enough left! Another inspiring performance from Anna, she was the only one to top every boulder in the finals.
Another comp over and another second place. I am so so psyched with my result and I really enjoyed the comp but… I now have three weeks in Boulder to go check out some rock! I am so excited to have a break in the season to do some actual rock climbing! We have had one day out so far at Lincoln which was really good fun and such a beautiful place. I managed to get up a 7c+/8a called Phobos but that was my limit for the day with the combination of still being sore and tired from the comp and also the insane altitude! I am definitely going to be fit after a few weeks here!!
We had a rest day today and I had to have some work done on my shoulder as I messed it up a little on the last move of the third boulder in finals. Check out what I looked like after some grastom…