Broken Heart, BROKEN LEG!

Have you ever experienced that moment just after you hurt yourself when you stop, hold your breath, scrunch up your face and hold on to the area of pain, waiting to see if it goes away, hoping that it was just a shock and that you are actually okay. I lay on the bouldering mat curled up in a ball but the pain wasn’t going away. All I could think of was the noise I heard when I hit the mat. A few deep breaths helped me to compose myself. A short while passed and I decided to try stand on my leg, I really wanted it to be okay, I wanted to carry on climbing, finish off the boulder and walk out. As I tried to put weight on my right leg the pain brought a sickly feeling into my stomach… I knew then that it was bad.

Magic Wood is a beautiful place and I don’t think I have ever been so psyched to try so many problems in one place. After a few days of exploration, excitement and trying hard in the heat, I had gathered a number of projects, fallen in love with the woods and I was very ready to try hard and get up some boulders. I had heard so much about Magic Wood, everyone I knew seemed to have been and I couldn’t wait to see it for myself. Totally safe to say it did not disappoint. The idea of such a high quantity of steep boulders in a small beautiful area excited me a lot and the best thing is that nothing is ever too far away! After the hiking in Colorado, walking to the boulders in Magic was bliss.

Team Hangar out in Suiss, gutted I didn’t get to stay the whole time! 🙁

There are so many boulders I wanted to see and try and endless problems to project, so knowing what to try is really hard. I wanted to try everything and do things quick just so that I could fit more in. Injuries however definitely hinder such desires and motivation. After the first two days I had at least two boulders that I wanted to get back on and do. At the beginning of my trip I had a little shoulder issue and had to spend some time resting. The rest worked well and I managed to get Jacks Broken Heart V12 done. I had tried the moves for about an hour previously but my shoulder prevented me from making that much progress. However, it went down first try on my next session! I then went on the try Foxy Lady V11, I wasn’t too keen in this as the holds were tiny and hurt my skin a little but the efforts my friends were putting in were inspiring so I decided that I should join in and have a good go.

Here is a short video I was sent, a random guy filmed my ascent of Jack’s but he missed the first move, we have more footage coming soon but for now you can check this out…

I was happy with my climbing but already thinking about what to try next. The heat of the next day lead to a late start and I was tempted by the thought of a rest day until I saw a really cool v10 called  Rythmo that my friends were keen to try. I had to join in, the steep arête was far too inviting. It took a while to figure out the short beta which unfortunately required the use of a very wide a greasy pinch and on two attempts on the problem I was fully shut down and rapidly fired into the ground back first. It finally went and we move on to the next problem Piranja which was also a V10. I was really excited about trying this, a friend had got it a few days before and I really like the sound of it… good holds, big moves. On my flash attempt I came up just short on the huge move to the smallest hold. I had felt the edge of the hold and was quite annoyed that I didn’t go far enough. I got straight back on to that move and did it no problem. This is when I jumped off, I didn’t fall I turned around and jumped off onto the mats I had placed myself. I have taken so many awkward falls and landed on some sketchy mats. This time the mats were fine, my landing didn’t seem to funny, my ankle didn’t twist but I heard a little snapping sound and my leg was really painful…

 So after coming to the realisation that my leg was definitely messed up and that I couldn’t actually walk it was time to commence the epic piggy back ride out! Ged Mac is a legend he carried me all the way to the campsite and although the walk ins in Magic are not too long they are not so smooth and require quite a bit of tree dodging, boulder hopping and you are constantly going up and down. Within an hour of jumping off the boulder I had my leg in the ice cold river water troff whilst the guys sorted everything out for our journey to the hospital. 

The journey to the hospital felt so long, since the pain began I had thought of little else and now my head was full of emotions and the pain didn’t seem so important any more. Without knowing what was actually wrong or how long I would be out for it was hard to know what to feel. Positivity and negativity were fighting in my mind but even in the best scenario my climbing in the woods was highly unlikely to continue and that thought added to the pain was enough to keep the tears falling.

I found a very short video accidently taken whilst we were in the hospital… it has made me smile every time I have watched it, Ged Mac getting into his Fatherly role 🙂

 

The hospital staff were really helpful and I spent less than 2 hours there. The doctor poked and prodded me for a while and eventually told me that he thought it was broken, shortly after the X-Ray confirmed this. A very happy chap who told me ‘oh it’s okay, it’s only a little break, nothing much to worry about’ as nice as the man seemed I really wanted to hit him!

I know that it could have been much worse and it could have happened at a worse time but I didn’t care my leg was broken, I couldn’t climb.

I have to have daily injections too, I think Ged was far to interested in this..

I spoke to my sister that evening and informed her that my BeastMaker Finger Board was going up. Right now I am not too sure how long I will be out for but Adidas ROCKSTARS and Munich World Cup are definitely not going to be possible for me. This year has gone so quick, I have done so much and so much has changed in my life. But now that I have some time to really stop and reflect I can truly appreciate how lucky I have been. My summer was totally packed full of climbing trips, comps and family events and now the family will only have to be fit in around one thing… TRAINING!

I have been in this situation before and I have worked through it, stayed psyched and got stronger.

 I am now back home and very happy to be here! BMC Insurance is unbelievable and I would definitely recommend it! I was put up in the guest house as camping wasn’t so ideal, they flew me home, arranged a taxi service to my front door, they even covered the petrol costs to the airport!And to think I almost didn’t take it out…


As for Magic Wood, I can’t wait to return when Piranja will be at the top of my tick list!

I hope you guys enjoy the rest of your trip…

Next week I will put up a short video of the a few boulders I managed to do in the couple of days climbing I got done… watch out for it 🙂

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  • Shauna’s a little broken! | The Climbing Hangar :

    […] in Magic Wood. She’s written about the trip and the break in her blog. Check it out at http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk Share this:PrintEmail ← Home 2 Home […]