A bad day at the office…
I have been insanely busy since the European Championships finished. I spent the day after the comp in Amsterdam with my coach Mark. It is a city like no other! Beautiful buildings and rivers massively contrast the colourful, insane buzz that runs through the centre. I was still trying to process the competition but Amsterdam was too overwhelming and took up all of my energy. I then had an epic journey to London getting to a freinds house at 3AM and up ready to route set at 9AM. I was setting at The Castle on their outside boulders which are really cool, definitely worth checking out! After setting I coached for 5.10 in the evening so it was a pretty full on day. Today is the first time I have been able to stop and actually reflect on the weekend. I have only just realised that the season is over.
So the europeans did not go as well as I had hoped. 7th is not the European ranking I wanted. It was a hard result for me to deal with as I was not disappointed with my climbing and this took me a while to accept.
I was really excited about competing in my first continental championships. I had been making progress all season and I felt ready to give everything in the last official competition of the season. Qualifiers went really well and I was the only person to top three of the boulders in my group. The climbs were fun and interesting with a bit of burl in there too. Conditions were terrible but that’s just part of the game sometimes. I was moving well, thinking well and generally feeling really good.
In the semi finals I went out feeling nervous as always but I felt really good too and I was excited! I climbed the first boulder on my 6th attempt after battling to get my body in just the right position and then scraping up my knee in a knee-bar for the last move. Mina Marckovic was the only other person to top the boulder. Unfortunately the next two boulders weren’t so bad at all, I don’t even remember much about them. I knew a lot of girls would have done them easily. I came out to the last boulder, looked at it and saw the way it should be climbed. However, my head and body were not working together and it took me a little longer than it should have to get through the roof to the cruxy last move and I found myself back on the mat feeling frustrated. I knew I could do the climb. After a rest I pulled back on and slipped due to some shabby footwork, the pressure of counting clock was on and I had to get back on straight away. I climbed fluidly, precisely and convincingly all the way to that last move. I stroked the finishing hold but it wasn’t a jug and I had no chance of holding it with the way I had positioned my body. I was back on the mats, out of time with the frustration building and building. From the moment I realised I had placed 7th the frustration just escalated and initially I couldn’t explain why the feeling was so overwhelming.
After talking with my coach I realised. I had climbed well, I had topped the hardest boulder and I could not be disappointed with my climbing. I was unlucky. This just made it all the more frustrating but at least I could understand my emotions.
I guess we all have a bad day at the office. Luckily mine came with a whole load of motivation too. I do not like being on the other side of the fence. I know I can do so much better and I will.
For the first time ever I had my coach, Mark Glennie, out at the competition with me. I didn’t think I would appreciate having him there as much as I did but the difference it made was amazing. (Although my result may not reflect this) But at this competition I have felt the most relaxed and comfortable than any other. Having a friendly familiar face, someone to listen to my constant babble and just be there if I need anything from a bottle of water to a shoulder to cry on makes a huge difference. I guess thats why the top teams have their managers, coaches and physio’s out at the world cups. It would be so great to have this one day!
Also, I spent the week before the competition hanging out with Jule Wurm. A massive thank you to her for letting me stay at her place, training with me and for the best rest days ever! It was so much fun to spend some time chilling out and really relaxing. I am so honoured to have met some of the of the most amazing people whilst competing at the world cups!
On another note the Womens Climbing Symposium has begun to take up lots of my time again. This year is going to be so so amazing! I can not believe how much we have going on at the event have a look at our website for more information. You can get tickets NOW HERE!! Ladies you do not want to miss it!