Log – Dragomer, Sloveina, Bouldering World Cup

I feel like I am walking away from the world cup in Slovenia having given as much as I could in the final. It was a massive breakthrough for me to try as hard as I could and I am please to have achieved one goal. Despite making route reading errors I can not be unhappy with my performance. Another final, another podium. 

This entire competition was full of extremely funky, enjoyable and interesting problems! The climbing was fun and actually about the right level! There was only one boulder in qualifiers that I didn’t like so much and it was the only one I didn’t do. The second one. It was awkward and pretty scary at the top!  I really enjoyed climbing the other boulder problems and I finished second in my group. I felt pretty relaxed in qualifiers which was nice for a change. Mina was in the same group and qualified in 5th. Leah qualified in the other group and Dave upped his game to join us three in semi finals this time! 

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Photo: Eddie Fowke

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Photo: Heiko Wilhelm

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Photo: Eddie Fowke

So we had 4 brits in Semi Finals. The semi final problems were really hard! I was so nervous. I walked out to the first problem to find a wall of pink volumes and no obvious way to get between them. It was jump on and see what happens kinda problem. Luckily a few times when I went for a move I accidentally but thankfully got caught in a knee bar. The next boulder forced me to put up a bit of a fight! But I managed to hold the sweaty volumes for just long enough to get the top on my second attempt. And then it was the nightmare slab. I didn’t have much fun on it. I made very little progress and got frustrated. This however fuelled my determination for the last problem. I knew it was going to be a close call to make it to finals. I had flashed the last boulder! So I decided falling off was not an option. I just could not let go! It worked. I wish I could do that all the time.

I qualified for finals in 4th place. After some lunch and a little nap it was time to head back to isolation. I felt more relaxed than usual for this final. I was really excited to see the problems and for once I felt reasonably fresh and without any real aches or pains. The presentation and observation took place and the butterflies were beginning to make themselves known in my belly. The first problem was a huge dyno with powerful finish. I felt good on this problem, I did not climb it as I had planned but some quick thinking at the top secured me the flash and saved me some energy. I had no idea how to climb the second boulder problem. There were so many holds! AS you can see from the picture.

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Photo: Heiko Wilhelm

Too many holds and I didn’t know what any of them were. It was another jump on and hope for the best problem. I tried SO HARD. I flailed at the bonus with very little belief that I could hold it but somehow I remained on the wall. Surprised, pumped and panicked. I had not expected the top of the problem to be so hard and my arms were too tired to make another move. I knew I couldn’t possibly do that move again, but then that’s what I thought the first time. But this time I was right I wasn’t getting back up there. On problems like that it is hard to know if you should push on with a proven sequence or try something new. Such decisions are not easy when you are down the wall never mind when you have 30 seconds to get back on, a huge crowd watching and you know it could make all the difference in what position you end up. 

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 Photo: Thomas Caleyron

The third boulder was my least favourite. Sweaty, slick, slopey volumes in a groove is not my idea of fun. During observation I wondered if I would be able to get off the ground so getting the bonus was good. I had a good battle but it left me with a little less finger nail, sweaty paws and not another top. I was amazed yet not surprised when Akiyo and Anna came back so fast after having completed a boulder that had felt so impossible. 

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  Photo: Thomas Caleyron

The last boulder was yet another battle. This time I won. I tried to go the way we had planned in observation on my first attempt. It did not work and it would not work. Luckily I came up with some new beta and although far from easy it got me to the top. Pumped, tired and a little sore but satisfied. 

In all I am happy with my performance. And now I have my first bronze medal. Just one more colour to complete the set 😉

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 Photo: Thomas Caleyron 

A massive congratulations to Dave Barrans who finished 8th! I am sure it won’t be long before you will be seeing multiple GB faces in the line up for finals. It was great to have a big team out again! 


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On another note… I managed to get out on some real rock a few times over the past month. A while back I climbed an awesome boulder problem in North Wales called ‘Roof of Baby Buddah’. Check out the video below! I also got out on some peak limestone. I did a fun little V11 that tested me in more ways than one. Tsunami, at Rubicon. I had totally forgotten how small holds can be and also how much you have to TRY on rock (even on the warm ups).

Roof of Baby Buddah, 7c+ from Shauna Coxsey on Vimeo.

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